The dusty lanes of Suryakollam follow the slow course of the tarry river below. It’s close to noon — a man wearing a lungi stands by the water brushing his teeth. The whitewashed mud-brick houses and thatched roofs glow in the hot sun. Cloth doors hang listlessly in the heat. A vintage Bollywood tune mixed to reggae booms through the air, adding unexpected festivity — unexpected because Suryakollam is the local red-light district. I’d assumed that a red-light district in India would be a sad sort of place.
Neela was waiting for me on her front step, her dog Kennedy was sitting beside her. With his silky white hair and slender fox nose, he was a strangely opulent dog to find in such surroundings — but that was part of Neela’s, and perhaps Suryakollam’s, enigma.
Once we were inside, she began her story.
***
Many years ago, when she was seventeen, Neela left her family and village in search of work. She arrived in Vellore in the dark, penniless. A woman who saw her alone at the bus stop let her sleep on her verandah for the night with the promise of work the next day. The following morning she was taken to a house to work as a maid. Before she knew it, there was a quick exchange of money and the door was decisively bolted behind her. She was now the property of a brothel. From there began the painful story shared by many women forced into sexual slavery. Neela discussed those days with the distance and sterility offered by words, calmly hiding her wounds.
Eventually, she smiled as she told me about her husband. He was a local rickshaw driver and used to be one of her clients. Unlike the others, he was nice to her — he would pay for her time and take her out to the cinema instead — sweet gestures in an awful place. Slowly, they forged a relationship until he was able to pay enough for her release from her bond. Their subsequent marriage was a tenuously woven arrangement. There were better times filled with genuine loyalty and love, and the birth of a precious daughter. But there were also periods of conflict and separation, when Neela was forced to return to the trade she knew best.
He finally left her for good — for another woman who also lived in Suryakollam. Of course, Neela was angry, and refused to have anything more to do with him. Months passed, until one day she heard he was very unwell and went to visit. She walked into a room and saw a gaunt, skeletal man lying in the shadows. The rumour was of AIDS — many others were also affected in Suryakollam.
It didn’t take her long after that to discover her own HIV status. Although she didn’t like the other woman, Neela visited almost every day, and together they cared for him till the day he died.
Neela’s home was a bare, low-ceilinged room; a few metres of space that she maintained with pride. During our interview I couldn’t help but focus on each of her few possessions.
A threadbare sleeping mat, rolled tight, leaning against the wall.
A small mirror with a blue plastic comb, perched on a window ledge.
The ever-silver plate she shares with her daughter during meals. Each time they eat she prays not to give her daughter HIV, even though her doctors tell her it isn’t possible.
It didn’t take me long to notice a large framed photo adorned with fairy lights. Stray beams of sunlight fell across the face of a woman wearing a modest green sari. Neela caught my glance and looked up, joining her palms in respect. That’s her, she told me with a quiet smile.
It seemed there was another part to the story she hadn’t yet narrated. When and how, she didn’t know, but over time her relationship with her husband’s mistress flowered into a lasting friendship. But sadly, she too had eventually succumbed to AIDS, and Neela cared for her till she died. In return, she gave everything she possessed to Neela, including her home — this home — one of the few owned by its tenant, one of the few pucca houses.
***
Neela glowed with health. A simple silver nose stud sparkled against her polished black skin, her arms lean with graceful muscles. She had regular blood tests but didn’t need treatment yet, the doctors said. Life had not been easy, but it seemed she was determined to smile, nonetheless. Money was a perennial problem. She now worked as a scavenger and the wages were abysmal. They led a precarious daily existence grasping at any sliver of opportunity. She went to various HIV network meetings and charitable events in the hope of getting microloans, better employment — anything to sustain them, especially her daughter’s English-medium education — but nothing ever seemed to continue long term. A benevolent doctor used to bring them a sack of rice every few months, but they hadn’t seen him for a year.
As I left, I asked how she felt living in Suryakollam
after what had happened to her there. She told me with confidence that things were changing now. Ever since it was cleaned out by the collector a few years ago, it had been a safe place. But I knew that those who owned the brothel she was enslaved in still lived nearby.
***
I walked through the busy streets filled with life — cattle, rickshaws, burly policemen, a raucous funeral procession. From the dust and mayhem, I emerged into the quiet,
air-conditioned confines of the Centre for Epidemiology. At this moment it was filled mainly with American researchers. Many worked for the CDC and other influential organisations, and travelled between multiple countries. As important words and numbers were being furiously keyed into laptops, I couldn’t help but smile.
Armed with facts, figures and literature reviews, I thought I had some idea of what HIV meant in India. With my Tamil heritage, I also thought I understood this culture, its norms and taboos. Neela had completely disarmed me.
***
This is meant to be an essay that discusses the challenges of working in a resource-poor setting. Instead, I give you pieces of Neela’s story. Listening to her was a humbling and illuminating experience. No degree, however prestigious the institution may be, could have prepared
me for it. No amount of facts or figures or statistical manipulations could ever convey who she was.
Often, in our enthusiasm to fix systems and offer big solutions, we forget the most crucial first step — the story of a community and its people. Most of us do not stay long enough or get close enough to the front line to ever be
able to discover these stories. “Resource-poor” settings
are worlds brimming with opportunity, creativity and resilience. The challenge is in leaving behind our laptops, our qualifications, our preconceptions and, instead, learning to truly listen.
We cannot know the solutions until we first know the people — and understanding their unique stories can take an entire lifetime.
Glossary
CDC: Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
Collector: a high-level Indian government public servant who is transferred between districts. The new collector forcibly closed down and demolished brothels in Suryakollam a few years ago, dispersing many commercial sex workers
English-medium: the more prestigious English-based curriculum schools that are privately run, as opposed to the free, local, state-government-run Tamil schools
Ever-silver: colloquial local term for stainless steel utensils. In many poor Tamil households, multiple members of the family eat meals together from the same plate
Lungi: a traditional sarong-like garment worn mainly by south Indian men
Pucca: a Hindi term now used throughout India for solid and permanent housing
Scavengers: those who collect discarded recyclable material such as plastic bottles, for which a fixed rate is paid based on quantity
Suryakollam: loosely translates to “Golden River” in Tamil
Vellore: a town in the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu